The OSI Reference Model and TCP IP architecture

The model represents a standard for connecting network systems. The model does not specify the choices in which the individual systems are connected but serves as a description of its layers, functions and services.

The OSI Model consists of seven layers, each of which, as was already stated, receives the services of the layer below and provides services to the layer above.

1. Physical layer
2. Data Link layer
3. Network layer
4. Transport layer
5. Session layer
6. Presentation layer
7. Application layer


Description of the individual layers

Physical Layer

The Physical layer comprises the lowest layer of the OSI model. Its function is to establish, terminate and manage either a point-to-point connection or a point-to-multipoint connection, to effectively distribute the communication resources to the users and to convert the digital data into signals transmitted by the medium.


Data Link Layer

The Data Link layer provides the link between two adjacent network entities, establishes transmission parameters and signals those errors in the physical layer that it cannot correct. The Data Link layer arranges bits into frames and identifies them with MAC addresses. The MAC provides the basis for the local device(s) connection whereby it creates the domain for unicast and broadcast transmission.
Bridges and switches operate at this layer.


Network Layer

The Network layer provides functional means of transferring data from a source to a destination (at variable lengths) via one or more networks while maintaining the quality of service requested by the Transport layer. The Network layer performs routing functions using the services of routers that operate here.
Routers work with a hierarchical addressing scheme. The most widely known protocol of the network layer is the Internet Protocol (IP).


Transport Layer

The Transport layer provides data transfer between end users. The main transport layer protocols are TCP and UDP.

TCP
" a reliable data transfer protocol
" Flow control protocol regulates receiving of data packets and prevents the TCP receiver from overflowing
" Windowing - after certain amount of data packets have been labelled as received (the amount is given by transmission specifications), the sending end user may request transfer of additional data

UDP
" an unreliable data transfer protocol
" used by network applications that do not require the whole of data packets to be received by the receiving host (Internet radios, online games, streaming videos, etc.)


Session layer

The Session layer coordinates data transfer between cooperating session layers.


Presentation layer

This layer is responsible for formatting of the data for application entities. Its functions are code and alphabet encrypting, graphic arrangement modification, etc.


Application Layer

The Application layer provides the application entities with the access to the communication system and thus enables their cooperation.

Categories: and, architecture, ip, model, osi, reference, tcp, the

It is not the size that counts it is how you use it

One of the biggest problems I have with my little shop of horrors is room to work. In truth, there isnt any, room that is. The shop is actually my office; the third and the smallest of the three bedrooms in our condo. Many visitors have mentioned that they never thought one small room could hold so much stuff. I give each of them credit as not one of them has used the word "junk" when making that statement.

The room has a double-width closet with space going from floor to ceiling. I was able to store most of my old power tools in this space through the use of a rather strange maze of shelving. Some others are stored under our bed and still others are stored at a friends shop. While I do not want to even look at them, let alone use them, I do not have the heart to give them away. They are old friends, old friends waiting to turn on me, but still old friends.

Front and centre in the shop now are my hand tools, many of those that I have purchased lately lined up along one work counter, the tool cabinet I am building wide open so I can see every tool stored in it, and other assorted pieces spread hither and yon. The reason for the visitors comments is due to all the other stuff my pride and joys share space with. Along with the tool cabinet, which has a built in bench, is a portable vice bench, one that needs replacing in the very near future, a full multi-stationed computer studio, books, miscellaneous mementos and other assorted sundries. One glance through the door and you quickly realize that building Norms bonnet topped highboy is out of the question.

I will admit that I havent picked up a tool and used it in a couple of months. My connection to all things wood lately is buying the odd one that strikes my fancy as they come across my bow, so-to-speak. With time being the illusive commodity it is these days, I havent even been able to actively pursue any of those tools I definitely want to add to my collection, but instead, have taken to placing orders for them with the one tool dealer I trust, jimbodetools.com. It is a strange way to participate in a hobby, but I guess it is better than nothing.

There is the future to look forward to, though. There will be a day, I hope, that we will be moving out of the city, the computers will be off more than they are on, and my time will be spent using all these beautiful tools I have collected. The reality is, though, I have no intention of building Norms highboy, but instead, build only what can comfortably fit on a small to medium sized bench. The relevance of size has completely disappeared from my head and I am looking forward to spend many an hour doing nothing more than creating complexities in joinery.

With this type of future work in mind, I have started to look for smaller than normal tools. With this in mind, I sent off an email to Jim Bode a few weeks ago asking him to locate a Stanley No. 2 and a No. 3 for me, an order he tells me is half complete at this point. I have also made a few other purchases from him lately, most along these same lines, some of which are displayed in the image below.

While not all the tools I have purchased over the past couple of months a represented here, these are my favourites from this latest group. The Stanley No. 4 in the background was one of the planes I purchased from my father, an inclusion in the shot to give you all a reference for size.

The first of these tools to come to me is the Stanley No. 62 Rule in the front, a present to me from my wife, which I thought was rather touching. Sadly, it is missing its alignment pins, but I will cut a few and pop those in one day.

Next came the coping saw, this set actually working in the reverse of my topic here. I purchased the smaller one two years ago at a Vintage Tool Market they hold once or twice a year close to Hamilton, Ontario. It is, without a doubt, the worst advertised sale in the history of capitalism as I have been watching for an announcement for the next one since leaving the one I attended and havent seen or heard a thing about it yet. Sad, really, as this neck of the woods holds very few events like this. Back to the saw, the seller had no clue who made it, but because I liked it so much, I purchased it anyway for $35.00. A few months ago discovered a full sized example on the Sindelar Museums web site. It was in excellent company in their Saw Section, so I called Mr. Sindelar to ask him about it. He asked for an image of the saw, which I sent, but I have yet to hear back from him and doubt I will. I would bet he could spend all his time answering questions from nuts like me, so I can understand his reluctance to set the precedence. Just after that this same saw was on the cover of a Lee Valley catalogue, so again I called asking for information. They replied, at least, although they did not know any of the history regarding their example. Shortly after that, the larger example shown here came up for sale on eBay, but sadly I missed bidding on it. As it didnt sell, I wrote the seller and asked if he could relist it, which he agreed to, and a month later he posted it and I purchased it as it is a perfect match to the smaller one. I think I paid him $10.00 for it, but he didnt know the history of it either, so I am now the proud owner of a pair of matching saws and havent a clue who should get credit for their beautiful design. What I do know is that they are European, probably from Germany, and if you have any more information about them, I would truly appreciate hearing from you.

Next to arrive was the pair of Plane Floats that I purchased from St. James Bay Tool Co. Bob Howard is the operator of this company and makes these floats himself. He also produces a beautiful line of planes for those who are interested, and has a brick and mortar in Mesa, Arizona.

The blame for my purchase of these floats lies with Rob, over on Blokeblog. He has been very free with his information regarding building a Shooting Board and while reading his offerings on the subject, I became enamored with concept of tackling one for myself. While all of the responsibility for the shooting board build lies with Rob, I have to take the credit or otherwise for deciding at the same time to build a matching plane for it as well. I have the wood and I have the floats. Now all I need is a blade, an adjuster (looking for a long Norris style), some brass and some time. And oh, yes, a plan. While I am on this subject, if anyone has any suggestions regarding handles for these floats, again, I would much appreciate hearing from you.

Next to come up is the Mitre Jack, although not old by any stretch, one that is beautifully made completely from mahogany, but most important to me was that it was small. Overall, it is only 9 1/2 inches long and stands about 4 1/2 inches high. I purchased it through jimbodetools.com, and I wasnt in love with it before purchasing it, and even less after it arrived. The afternoon after its arrival, I did what I always do to a tool purchase, and stripped it down, cleaned it and laid on a coat of wax. After buffing it up a bit, the thing came alive in my hand, so over the next few days I ended up applying 9 coats of wax. With each coat it blew me away that much more and now, fully waxed, it sits in the spot of glory in the shop so I can see it every time I turn around. On one hand Im thrilled it turned out to be the bride, instead of the bridesmaid, but on the other, it looks so wonderful now, I may not use it, but Ill put together a pair of waste jaws and give it a go before making up my mind.

The final purchase was last weekend and is a result of an email to me from Lee Valley. This email was their announcement for two of their latest products; a miniature shoulder plane (#05P8001) and a smaller than normal marking gauge that they are calling a Pocket Marking Gauge (#15N0201). If you look on one of the top surfaces of the mitre jack, you will find this little plane while the marking gauge stands before it.

Upon receiving the plane, I disassembled it and swiped the blade across my strop a few times to see what it was going to need. Like all things Veritas, though, it was flat, relatively sharp, and ready to use. I reassembled it and took a few strokes with it along a short bit of walnut and found it more than usable, it offering up some very nice, fine shavings. There is an issue at the start and end of the board, especially because of its length, but that, I think, can be overcome with some experience with it. It is a bit of a buzz that, at 2 1/2 inches long with a 1/4 inch cut, it looks and works exactly like its larger brother, right down to a scaled down version, threads and all, of their Norris style blade adjuster. This adjuster is so fine in its adjustment, I thought it was broken when I adjusted the blade for the first time. It is, despite its size, a very well made tool.

That said, there are a couple of issues with it, the main one being that it appears to be, so far, a stand-alone product. By "stand-alone" I mean that Lee Valley has not even so much as hinted that this offering will be part of a planned "family" of miniature planes, and I dont like that idea one bit. Maybe it is from being raised poor and having my choice of many styles and sizes of water glasses from my mothers cupboard, only because no two glasses matched, but I really have a thing for matched items, especially tools, and I do not think I stand alone with that attitude. I believe it should be part of a set and will be extremely disappointed if it doesnt end up that way. This should be just the first in a series that includes 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2 inch sizes. While I do not think any should be any shorter than this one as this 1/4 has reached its limit in size when it comes to using it, but I do think that as they grow in width, they could grow in length by 1/2 inch increments.

The other issue I have with it is a flaw I also consider to be very large, and very serious. I comes in a storage case that is not too shabby, although I am not big on these things and usually throw them away (some collector, eh?). The case does have one thing that the tool doesnt, it has "Veritas" stamped in the bottom corner of its lid lining. When I noticed the lack of this mark on the tool, I took it apart again and discovered that there are absolutely no makers marks on the tool anywhere. For a tool manufactured as well as this little guy is, that is, or at least should be, downright illegal.

Peace,

Mitchell

Categories: counts, how, is, it, not, size, that, the, use, you

All The Gift Giving Days Rolled Into One

There was a knock on my door yesterday; a sound my wife has come to dread. She has good reason to as it was once again the postman with my latest collection of tool acquisitions. This particular shipment was even more exciting for me because it included not only my latest purchase, but also three other purchases I have made over the past two months.

A couple of months ago I purchased a 14” Disston-Jackson Backsaw on eBay. I came across it while searching for a match to my Jackson 12” dovetail rip. It was one of those strange purchases where you don’t really think about it, you just do it. I placed a bid, if I now remember correctly, one of $27.00, and forgot about it. About four days later I got an email saying I had won the auction and to be honest, I was taken aback by this email, as I truly did not remember bidding on a saw. Finally remembering that I actually did make the bid, I sent off the money and emailed the seller and asked him to ship the saw to Daryl Weir (woodnut4 on eBay), who is located in Illinois, so he could refurbish it before I got my hands on it.

About two weeks after that, I finally came across a new listing on eBay for an open-handled Jackson dovetail saw that I could have made into a crosscut to match the rip I had. I quickly sent off an email to Daryl asking him to look at the listing and make as accurate of judgment on the saw that he could, given the limited information the listing held, and added to by a even more limited answers to my emailed questions I sent off to the seller. Daryl got back to me right away stating that while he couldn’t be sure, the saw did appear in the photos to be workable. I had been searching for this match for the past year and a half and this saw was the first I had come across so I became very determined to own it. It seemed to me to be a long week before the auction finally ended, but I think I ended up paying a whopping $26.00 for it. Again, when I paid the bill, I asked the seller to ship it to Daryl.

A week after that, doing my usual morning cruise through all the vintage tool seller sites looking for more Stanley No. 40 chisels, I came across an older Disston Gent’s saw on the toolexchange.come.au site. While there was very little information about this saw, which is not unusual for this site, I trust the proprietor, so I emailed him and stated that if the saw is straight, bill me and send it to Daryl. Naturally, he billed me $55.00 (AU), and another saw headed off to join Daryl’s ever-increasing workload.

Last Sunday I got an email from Daryl stating that all the work on the saws had been completed and they were being shipped the following morning. Included in the email was the total bill for refurbishing the three saws. I was amazed at how little it cost me, considering the work involved.

The first saw, the Disston – Jackson 14” back, was manufactured between 1910 and 1920. It was not in the best of shape, although the bones were there. Daryl removed the handle and the back. He then cleaned, straightened and re-tensioned the blade, reinstalling the back once the blade was ready for assembly. He cleaned and gave the handle a few coats of boiled linseed oil to preserve the original finish and then reinstalled it. The saw was then jointed and sharpened at 12 ppi. The blade is very thin, at .027”, and as Daryl says, “it is a fast, smooth cutting saw”, one that will work very well in my Stanley No. 150 Miter Box.


The little Jackson Dovetail was in better shape. It only had to be cleaned, jointed and sharpened. As the handle was loose,
Daryl removed it, cleaned it and coated it with boiled linseed oil, reattaching it so it is now tight and secure. For 26 bucks, I didn’t do too badly. While not an exact match to the Jackson I wanted to pair it with, it turned out to be a pretty good little saw. Where my rip is from somewhere around1888, this one is from the1870’s. What was almost disappointing, though, was while my rip is 12”, this one is only 10”. It was in the description. but I had been looking for this match for so long, I didn’t even bother to fully read the description, I just went at it and purchased it. I’ll keep looking for an exact match to the rip, but until then, I’m happier with an almost matching crosscut than I was without one at all.


Here is a shot of my "almost" pair of Jackson Dovetail Saws...


The Disston Gents saw was a steal. The only thing it required was sharpening, and Daryl did that, giving it a crosscut filing. It has seen very little use and has lots of metal beneath the back. The etching on it is faded, but still easily readable. Neither Daryl, Stuart, the seller, or I have any idea when it was manufactured. Daryl put it in the “older model” category because it has the wider back and has a pretty turned handle. I bought it to replace a Dozukime saw I bought at Lee Valley Tools a while ago. Its not that the Dozukime is a bad saw, its not. In fact, it is a very good saw for the price ($49.00 (CAN)). It is just that I can’t get used to cutting on the pull, and I don’t feel I have control of the cut with it as much as I do with a push style of saw. I think using a pull style saw requires a completely different stance than when using a push saw; one that requires you to be further away from the material. With my eyesight, this just doesn’t work for me. I have to be so close to the markings that I could use my nose as a guide to start the saw, so a push style saw is more aligned to my abilities.


I won’t tell you what I ended up paying Daryl for all this work, but when you look at all three saws, it is surprising how very little money I have tied up in them. To date I have purchased four saws from Daryl, had him sharpened two others, and completely refurbish three more. I have nothing but good things to say about this man. Lets face it, I didn’t do anything to get this wonderful set of saws other than pay the bills. While I own them, it was Daryl that made them worth owning. Who, then, should get credit for them; me, because I have a Visa card, or Daryl, who spent a number of hours turning a bunch of sow’s ears into a group of silk purses?

You can get in touch with Daryl Weir at weir@gallatinriver.net, or you can find him on eBay listed as woodnut4. He usually has one of his refurbished saws for sale each week.

Having thought about it, I am considering upping the anti and buying some true collectible saws now; ones I won’t use, but instead, will just dust and look at. I don’t think the vast majority of my tools will increase in value anytime soon, but some of the higher-end collectable saws and planes might as investors look for new places and things to sink their money into. That is what happened with muscle cars from the 60s and 70s, which only happened very recently. Why couldnt the same happen with tools? With the everyday tools like the ones shown here, I think that my son, who will inherit them, will definitely be in a win-win situation. As "quasi-collectables", he can sell them and probably see what I have invested into them back, with maybe a little more to spare. If he decides to keep them, he will have a wonderful set of hand tools to use. Until then, however, just look at what I get to play with.


Along with the package of saws came a second package. Sorry, this post isn’t done yet.

Two weeks ago I was having a look around the eBay listings in the Tool Collectables section, and came across another tool I had been looking for; a Stanley No. 71 Router Plane. It was being offered by nail1nh55, a seller who turned out to be one of the most honest sellers I have ever dealt with on eBay. What he was offering was one of the “B” models, this particular one being manufactured in 1909, the exact tool built in the exact year that I was looking for.

Sound a little too specific? Let me explain.

The open-toe model that Stanley started producing in about 1890 had a "shoe" added that closes the throat so it can be used on narrow stock in about 1895 or 96. They also added a depth rod at about this same time, modifying the shaft that holds the adjustable shoe so it became a dual-purpose item. Around 1898 or 1899, they stopped producing the plane with a japanned finish and started producing it with a nickel-plated finish. In 1902, the biggest change in the design happened when they added the wheel adjustment to move the blade up and down, a design change that allows for finer adjustments with greater accuracy. In 1909, they added the countersunk holes in the sole so a wider board could be attached to the tool and a few months later, Stanley redesigned the sole casting so the combo depth rod / shoe mount protruded through the throat, which eliminated the need for the second collar that held the cutter blade and the shoe attachment together. Stanley went on to produce this design for the next 64 years with only three changes to the design after 1909. One those changes took place in 1910, when they stopped producing the planes with maple knobs and started producing them with ones painted black, another change was the addition of a third "smoothing" blade in 1917 and the third, in 1939, saw them add an adjustable fence to the sole.

The example that I now proudly own has an open toe, a shoe, a combo shoe holder and depth gauge shaft, it is nickel-plated, has the wheel adjustment, countersunk holes in the sole and maple handles, but it does not have the second mount in the throat. This one came with the original and often lost second collar and also has the original two blades.


As a result of all of this, and the reason I was looking for this exact model, is that this particular example is one of those very rare Stanley products whose manufacturing date can be narrowed down to within one year – six months, actually. Hence, I can pretty much emphatically state that this Stanley 71 B Router Plane was manufactured in the first half of 1909.

How many tools in your cabinet can you date that closely?

Peace,

Mitchell

Categories: all, days, gift, giving, into, one, rolled, the

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Categories: for, home, projects, the, Woodworking

Monitoring the Finish

I’m lucky enough to have two (2) big (23” inch, I think) monitors at work. Since I got them, I’ve been looking to mount them to the wall and win back the desk space (I’ll never understand why flat panel monitors or TVs are left on their bases). By getting them off the desk I can slide the laptop dock under the primary monitor. That will let me set up my secondary printer where the laptop dock used to sit. The second monitor can now be hung above the phone, getting it closer to the first for a more seamless view between them.

My desk before the monitor wall mounting began.

I began by measuring the clearance I’d need for the laptop and determining where and at what height I’d like the monitors. Then of course I took their bases off and set them aside.

Laying out the mounting holes in the board.

As the wall is a steel framed, ½” gypsum wall typical of modern light commercial construction I was not comfortable mounting the monitor arms directly to the gypsum. Since I’m locating them relative to my chair and not the wall framing, I chose to mount a wooden board to the wall first. The board can be fastened to two (2) studs and the monitor arms can be mounted to the board, independent of the stud locations. Before I installed the board, I carefully layed out and pre-drilled all of the fastener holes.

We have board mounting!

Once the board was attached to the wall studs, it was a simple matter of attached the monitor arms in the pre-drilled holes, attaching the monitors to the arms and plugging everything back in.

Everything mounted and plugged in, the first time.

Unfortunately, I realized at that point that I had installed the to edge of the board at the height I had wanted the top edge of the monitor (the board is centered on the monitor height). That’s what I get for working in my office at 1:00 am.

The eye level view when the monitors were originally mounted.

A few minutes later I had taken it all apart, re-mounted the board lower, and re-assembled everything. This time the height seems dead on. I’ll move my laptop dock and confirm that it fits another day when it’s not the middle of the night. I’ll make another board to install above the original and hide the fastener holes from my first, aborted installation.

The second, correct height, mounting.

Why regal you, my dear woodworking readers, with the tale of mounting of my monitors to the wall in my office? Because that board I used to mount the monitor arms that I can now barely see behind the monitors was my finishing experiment. I used The Wood Whisperer’s Simple Varnish Finish method to finish it, and the finish came out excellent. I’ll be folding the monitors out of the way to show the board off to my coworkers.

The beautiful mounting board, soon to be buried behind monitors.

If you’re nervous about finishing, you need to check Marc out. Between the Simple Varnish Finish DVD, the Finishing: It Aint’ Over Till It’s Over book and the abundant finishing advice he shares in his podcasts, he is a wealth of actionable finishing advice. You owe it to yourself to check him out.

How are you finishing that project of yours?

The full photo album

Categories: finish, monitoring, the

The Banjo Is Done !!

Well .... Its done and it sounds GREAT ! For a first shot at building a banjo from scratch, Im completely happy with the way it came out ... It took considerable patience on WIlls part to get the neck on right, and we learned a lot, about building a banjo and about working together on a project where we both had a little knowledge, but neither of us had the whole picture. We both stuck up for what we thought was right, which made the process decidedly more interesting. Its a good thing one of us (and it wasnt me) knew a lot about how a banjo should play, how it should be set up and what little things you can do to fine tune the finished product. Will has a couple more tweaks that he wants to do to it, but I think hes pretty happy with it too .... Hopefully, well add some sound to this entry soon .... Click the pictures to enlarge them .....

First notes, yesterday afternoon ...

The pot

The fretboard

Side view

Head on ...
Other Posts about making this banjo
First post/start up Making the rings and turning the pot
Second Post Progress Fitting the neck to the pot
Third Post Shaping the neck and adding the fretboard

Categories: !!, banjo, done, is, the

Mounting the Makita 5104 on the EZ Moduni Saw Base

Dino Makropoulos of EurekaZone recently sent me the newest version of the EZ Moduni Saw Base to attach to my new Makita 5104.   The 5104 is a 10.25" saw, so it will not fit the standard EZ Saw Base.  If you are wondering, I think that Moduni comes from MODular UNIversal.  This new version is milled with a CNC, rather than milled with EZ setups as the previous versions were.  This allows for features not readily producible before, and Dino can have different CNC programs to easily build bases for a large variety of saws.  There is an excellent new feature, it has spacer tabs that let you align the blade perfectly with the track guide ridge.

Anatomy of the Moduni Saw Base

These spacer tabs are removed once the base is installed, but more on that later.  Actually, since I received my Moduni base, Dino has changed the style slightly.  In the illustration below, instead of two alignment spacer tabs to align the blade (the top drawing), the two spacer tabs are connected by a long piece that makes alignment easier (the bottom drawing).

Earlier and Latest Versions of the Moduni Base

While mounting the base, I kept the blade guard out of the way with a spring clamp.  Of course, the saw was unplugged during the whole operation.

Blade Guard Held Open With Spring Clamp

The 5104 has two adjustable stops that are accessible from the bottom of the saw base.  These needed to be accessible once the Moduni base was installed, so two holes needed to be drilled in the right locations.

To locate the holes, I made two marks where the slot for the guide ridge was located on the bottom of the saws base.  These can be faintly seen to the right of the left hand adjustment screw in the above picture.

The measurements were made from those lines and from the front of the saws base.  The Moduni base was going to be installed with the front of the saws base against the front ridge piece that runs across the base to tie the main part of the base to the piece that forms the slot.  So I had two locations from which to measure on the Moduni base, the sides of the slot and the back edge of the front ridge piece.

Once I had the locations marked, I drilled the holes in the Moduni Base.

I then places four patches of double stick tape on the saws base.  Later I will probably add some screws to the base, but the tape will work for now.

I put the front of the saws base against the front ridge of the Moduni base with the back of the Moduni base raised, tilted the Moduni down until the positioning tabs were against the blade.

Then I pressed the Moduni base down on to the saws base.

Unfortunately, I failed to shoot a video of the process (senior moment).  The next step was to trim the positioning tabs from the base, as they interfere with the operation of the blade guard. 

This process I did shoot a video of...

With the tabs trimmed the the saw was ready to trim the base and AC-3 to the blade.  First I needed to assure that the slot for the guide ridge of the track was snug and the knobs were tight.

The AC-3 was moved to the edge of the blade slot so that it would also be trimmed.

That done, I raised the blade to its highest; clamped the track and saw to the edge of the bench with the blade beyond the bench edge; started the saw and slowly lowered the blade to its fullest extent.

I cant wait until I have to rip some 8/4 oak or something heavier...

Categories: 5104, base, ez, makita, moduni, mounting, on, saw, the