Going by its name "wood shed plans", they are the perfect guide to build sheds mainly built by wood, as this material is rather tricky and difficult to work on; you have to be very careful in drilling holes and cutting. A simple shed plan can increase your work if you happen to have miscalculations of the materials. To be more organized helps in the long run and completes things faster and with ease.
So let us begin with the dimensions of the wood shed. However the difficult part in this project may be the size of the wood shed as many folks settle on the medium size shed that is a 8 x 12, as the bigger shed take a longer time to complete, yet the project can be completed rather fast if you get some help from friends or family.
After deciding the size of the wood shed, go ahead with the work of the foundation and start by digging the necessary holes in the backyard, which can then be used for beams, you need roughly around 2 feet deep holes for each corner including the rear sides, the front and the mid points.
Basically these wood sheds are comparatively simple to build than the other material sheds. Better still if you do not have anything heavy to store in it, you can build it with no windows which is easier.
The design of the wood shed wall can be a flat row with braced sticks, or a plain one. The typical one is a 7 4" long stud down the rear wall and 1 4" gap between them. The front side, has studs a bit higher about 6", so as to create a slope for the water to run down easily. This way the door too will get wider. The frame of the side wall should be followed by the elevation of rear side wall and on the front. Though a little complicated a well worked out shed plan will give proper instructions.
A good wood shed plan will have all the details from the roofing to the flooring and from measurements to materials.
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The process means teaching myself how to restore and upkeep these beasts. Including the removal of patina, or rust, and the reshaping and sharpening the teeth. If you’ve read along before you know I recently acquired a good saw vise, set, jointer, and files needed to do the work. So there’s no excuse to wait any longer in the process.
I started thinking about the problem in terms of other steel I use. The pieces of my armor I use practicing Medieval Reenactment and Western Martial Arts. There is a product that other armor wearers have suggested to help keep the rust off the steel, it’s called Renaissance Wax. It’s even used by museums to coat swords and armor because it will easily buff to a clear coat and wax will repel to moisture that is the bane to the steel. I have not yet sprung for the product as I can just keep my armor coated in a layer of gun oil when not in use, but a constant coating of oil on saw blades is just not practical. For one, I will use the saws more often than the dozen or so times a year I strap on my armor, and two oil on the saw blade could potentially add a stain to the wood it’s cutting, leading to discoloring during the finishing process.
Now I wasn’t about to run out and feverishly buy a can of Ren Wax. What I had to do was figure out a less expensive alternative. What I do already have in my possession is a couple sticks of saw lube or saw wax. It’s used to lubricate a saw blade and help it cut material better, It also works well in the place of soaping screws to get them to drive better. After thinking it through, I believe I came up with a system that will help keep the rust off and just require the occasional recoating after vigorous use. 
The next task is reshaping and sharpening the teeth one saw at a time. We’ll see how that process goes. I have been able to take a closer look at these saws than I ever have bothered to before and they will take some work. I think they will need a good amount of filing to get back on the straight and narrow, but I have already found some good sources on the process and I’m looking forward to starting. So then, until next time. 
